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Remove the lower front cowl. (5 mm Allen wrench required).
Remove Allen head bolts on the side under the light pod (right side shown). Remove bolts on both left and right sides.
Remove Allen head bolts just to the inside of the light pod on each side (right side shown).
Remove Allen bolts just above the light pod on each side (right side shown). Note: this bolt goes through the engine cover, the fairing and then into a clip on the cowling and is longer than the others.
Remove the two quick-clips located above the front engine cover (right side shown). Pull on the center of the pin and then remove the quick-clip.
Remove the dead plates on the cowl where the lights will shine through leaving as much of the tab as possible. A Dremel tool will simplify this job. If you do not have a Dremel tool, use side cutters and a file.
After the dead plate is off the Dremel tool to cut off the tab flush with the cowling. Note: hold the Dremel perpendicular to the opening.
Note: After my lights were installed for awhile the black trim came loose. I removed the trim. None of the other openings in the cowl have trim, so if you do a neat job of removing the cut out, the trim is not needed. If you decided to use the trim, grind down the gussets so that the black trim will fit around the edge.
If you decide to use it install the black trim. The trim supplied by Tulsa is
rubber and is very flexible. However the trim does not have any adhesive
in the recess. You might want to put some adhesive in the recess to make
sure the trim stays in place. The trim is longer than you need and will have to be
trimmed to fit with a pair of side cutters.
Set the cowling aside.
Install the lights.
Connect the 2 short Green Ground leads (these were not
furnished with my kit so I had to make my own) to the black wires on the
lights. These ground wires will be connected to the mounting bolts.
At the side of the engine in the front of the head is a molded black plastic shield that blocks viewing inside the front lower cowl from the side. Remove and set aside the bolts (you will not need these bolt any longer) however the plastic shield (left side shown) will be reinstalled. You can see the gold metal collared washer in the plastic in the upper left corner of the picture below. The metal collar washer must remain in position.
The lights are marked right and left (as you are setting on the motorcycle). Caution: My lights were marked backwards. When looking from the front of the motorcycle the "L" on the stainless steel primary bracket should be to the bottom. The bracket holding the light is attached to the stainless steel bracket by one screw. This screw should be such that it is in the slot on the inside (toward the wheel - which will force the light to the outside of the stainless steel bracket. The 2 nylon spacers and long bolts are used with the left side light while the shorter bolts are for the right side light. The top bolts should be assembled with the lock washer, inserted through the bracket, and then inserted through the black deflector. The bottom bolts, should be assembled with the lock washer, slipped through the ring terminal of the grounding lead, inserted into the bracket., and then inserted through the black deflector. Just snug the mounting bolts, all the mounting bolt holes are slotted, this is to allow adjustment of the lights to center them in the opening of the lower cowl. A 4 mm Allen wrench is required.
Right Light (left looking from front) |
Left Light (right when looking from front) |
Connect the red power harness (in the kit that I had, it was orange spliced to red) fused lead to the battery. You will have to pull down on the snap lever to release and rotate the black plastic cover for the positive battery terminal. Do not install the fuse at this time. However, you can relocate the red boot and the black plastic protection cover.
I ran the lead under the battery tie down strap, through the existing tie strap, and behind the frame.
Remove the nut (8mm) that is holding the tank cover in place. Pull the cover out enough to route the wire over the stud and behind the cover.
You will notice in the picture below that my lower vent is missing. I didn't remove it; but that is another story. However, this did simplify running the wire up to the opening for the headlight adjustment panel. The manufacturer warns not to use a wire fish to do this as you might damage one of the harnesses in this area.
Note: theses instructions are for fog lights (two relays), if you have driving lights (one relay) see note at bottom of the page. There is a terminal on one of the relays that is not used. It is covered with a crimped spade connector with no wire attached. You can see it in the forefront of the right relay below. Do not connect anything to this terminal.
Install the spade connector of the red power wire onto the open terminal on the relay (visible on the right relay below).
The two relays are held together with a piece of double faced tape. I ran a couple of layers of electrical tape around them to make sure that they stayed together.
Click Here for schematic with fog lights as documented in these instructions
Click Here for driving light schematic
Click Here for secondary light schematic (not recommended).
